Destination: Passy, France
I really liked the campsite at Laives and would love to have stayed longer and chilled at the lakes, but Day 4 was going to be a big day. Looking at the spreadsheet doesn’t really give much of a clue, but I knew this part of my trip was going to be both challenging and exciting, definitely an adrenaline filled day!
My plan was to start by heading to Geneva for a view of the lake, but for some reason Waze was playing up so that didn’t happen. I later learned it was because I didn’t have the necessary permit for using the toll roads through Switzerland, that was a big lesson for next time!
I decided to head directly to Chamonix for my next stop, and get there a bit earlier. This was a good call as there was an endurance race happening that weekend and it was very busy!
Stop 1: Chamonix
Driving to Chamonix was awesome. It was the first time I’d driven on roads on ‘stilts’. I was to discover that very many roads in Italy and Switzerland are built this way because of the mountainous terrain. Aside from the thrill of the chicanes making you feel like you’re on a race track, the scenery is absolutely incredible. And Dora (the explorer .. my Mini) just loves the twisty turny nature of those roads, so I could literally coast and take it all in!
Once I’d reached Chamonix, I headed for a Parking du Grepon, a car park just outside of the town. It was exceptionally busy as the annual UTMB Endurance Race was happening that weekend. If you do happen to visit while this event is taking place I would definitely recommend arriving very early in the day. Even though the car park is huge, there are literally thousands of participants and supporters and you will struggle to park.
Having found a space eventually, I headed into Chamonix to check out the town. It was much smaller than I’d expected, but very charming. The chalet style buildings remind you how close to Switzerland you are, and the river that churns through the town is a beautiful alpine aquamarine.
There are plenty of cafes and restaurants, and if you need provisions, there are also a few supermarkets. I later visited Carrefour, on the main road into Chamonix just past the Grepon parking, which also sells fuel.
It had been a lovely stroll through the pretty town but now it was time to head off for the next, rather challenging and exciting part of my day. I was about to ascend the Aigulle du Midi in the French Alps for a close up view of Mont Blanc, the highest mountain in Western Europe!
Stop 2: Aigulle du Midi
Visiting the Aigulle du Midi is an adventure in itself, which is why I’ve added it in as a stop rather than just a tour. I had researched and booked my trip well in advance, which is one of the reasons I had elected to head to Chamonix early and find parking. I absolutely did not want to miss this.
The summit is reached by the highest vertical ascent cable car in the world, which takes around 20 minutes. To say that 20 minutes was one of the most nerve wracking of my life is not an understatement. I am horrifically afraid of heights … but fear is there to be conquered, right?!
There were around 15 of us in the cable car going up, and it was nice sharing the experience. There were visitors from all over the world with quite a few people who’d been participating in the endurance event. It was reassuring when EVERYONE gasped as the cable car swung and lurched it’s way over the supports holding us above the valley!
On reaching the top though, you are absolutely rewarded by the most stunning views!
There are several areas to explore, starting at the terraces which give the fabulous view of Chamonix shown above. They are reached via quite sturdy bridge and some pretty scarey steps, that hang over the edge of the mountain!
One thing I’d not bargained for was having to get used to the altitude, it really did affect me. I would recommend getting yourself adjusted to it before heading towards the scarey steps. The terraces have some nice places to sit and chill and there is a small cafe. I met a lovely family from New Jersey and Poland while I was there and we chatted for ages about our travels, enjoying the beautiful sunshine and watching the climbers.
Once you’re ready to head back down those steps, there is also a ‘tube’ which takes you to another viewing area on the other side of the mountain. This gives yet more breathtaking views!
The final challenge, if you dare, is to ‘step into the void’. This requires you to take a lift to the very top of the Aigulle du Midi. Once there you have to walk a glass bottomed corridor, before stepping out into a glass box suspended above 1000m of emptyness!
This is a picture of the top of the Aigulle du Midi taken from the terraces. The glass box of ‘step into the void’ is just visible, hanging off the right hand side of the building!
Having had my fill of adrenaline for one day, I headed for the cable car back down the mountain. Little did I know it would be rammed and seemed to descend at twice the speed we had ascended at!
I was definitely ready for a rest after all that excitement.
Overnight: Mont Blanc Plage
For my overnight stay, I’d picked a small site at Passy just to the north of Chamonix, called Mont Blanc Plage. Although this meant very slightly backtracking on my journey it was totally worthwhile. The view of Mont Blanc from this site is breathtaking!
Additionally, the site is adjacent to a huge natural lake that provides the ideal opportunity for a lovely cooling swim to wash away the sticky heat of the day. If you do go for a dip, just be aware, that you will not be alone!
With the site located in a secured wooded shady area next to some smaller ponds, it really is a very chilled vibe, perfect after the busy crowded streets of Chamonix. And a lovely way to wind down if you’ve had an exciting day.
There is a restaurant/bar that opens until 8pm in the main season, and the shower and bathroom facilities are great. This was one of the few places where I saw other UK tourers, and there was even another UK rooftent camped next to me.