Destination: Antwerp
Despite my late arrival the night before, I’d had a fabulous sleep at Resort de Wije Werelt and was up bright and early. I had a wander round the site, then headed to the shop next to reception to pick up a pain au chocolat and some coffee. I sat for a while in the little herb garden, listening to the sounds of the forest, before saying my goodbyes to the Netherlands for now.
When I was ready, it was a quick check out process. The reception staff were bright and cheery and sent me on my way with a smile. Tot ziens!
Stop 1: City Camping, Antwerp
It wasn’t an overly long drive to my next site, City Camping Antwerp. As I had stopped to pick up lunch and give my legs a rest along the way, I arrived in Antwerp around noon. It had been quite sad saying goodbye to the lovely Netherlands, but I was now in Belgium, home to both the waffle and to Waterloo!
Just a note to anyone who is thinking of driving through Antwerp, there is a low emissions zone that you will need to register for. But don’t worry as it’s really easy and (currently) free for compliant vehicles.
I hadn’t been quite sure what to expect, as I had booked the City Camping site via their private website rather than Pitchup. But I absolutely need not have worried. It was easy to find and very secure, and the young lady at reception was exceptionally welcoming.
Having found myself a roomy pitch at the edge of the site, I quickly got set up, had lunch and then headed off into the city.
I was quite excited as I set out, as City Camping is on the west side of the river Scheldt and I’d be getting a water bus into the city. Luckily, City Camping is right next to the jetty for the water bus stop Linkeroever (Sint-Anna) so it was very easy to find.
Stop 2: City of Antwerpen
The water bus was great, really quick and cheap (4€ single, 6€ return) and a fab service. The only issue is that it doesn’t run after 10pm Mon-Fri although it does run until 11pm on Saturday and Sunday. If you need to get back to City Camping after that time you’ll need to take another route … but more on that later!
I absolutely loved Antwerp, and can’t wait to get back there. It had such a lovely chilled vibe and felt super safe for a woman travelling alone. There was also so much to see in the city that I barely scratched the surface in the time I had there.
I’ve broken a few of the things I visited into sections, so it’s easy to follow if you are planning your own visit.
Het Steen and Hoogstraat
The water bus travels from Sint Anna in the north to Steenplein in the south, which is the main stop for Antwerp. When you alight the water bus, I’d recommend heading straight for Het Steen castle which will be on your left. The fortress itself is really well preserved and has a great visitor centre. There’s also a panoramic roof terrace that gives a lovely view over the river. Having made the most of the facilities and armed myself with a map, I headed into town.
I didn’t follow a particular route, just noting the interesting points on the map and bimbling between them. I loved the architecture, and popped into a few lovely and unique shops along Hoogstraat which is one of the main shopping streets, both lively and historic. I eventually treated myself to some vibrant and quite unusual palazzo pants from ‘Lets Go Bananas‘ located at number 23 … a souvenir, right?!
Grote Markt and Kathedraal
I was now heading toward the historic centre of Antwerpen at Grote Markt (Big Market). The square itself is truly impressive, framed by the grand City Hall, and a row of guildhalls, with the Brabo Fountain at it’s centre.
When I visited, the square was surprisingly quiet, though it is usually alive with markets and events throughout the year. The Christmas Market, Festival of the Giants and Swan Market all take place here alongside many cultural performances and pop-ups.
The iconic fountain is crowned with a bronze statue of Antwerp’s legendary founder, Silvius Brabo. According to local lore, Brabo defeated the giant Druon Antigoon. The giant had terrorised travellers by demanding tolls and cutting off the hands of those who refused. Brabo struck him down and threw the severed hand into the river. This act gave rise to the city’s name: Antwerpen, meaning “hand-throw” in Dutch.
And then just when you think you couldn’t be any more impressed, you round the corner and happen upon the Katheraal. It is really difficult to capture the size and scale, but it is absolutely huge. Additionally it houses a number of artworks by Rubens, one of the reasons I am going back to Antwepen for another visit!
In front of the Kathedraal lies a striking modern artwork of a sleeping boy and his dog, Nello and Patrasche. At first glance it brings a smile, yet the story behind it is deeply moving. In the 1872 novel A Dog of Flanders, the devoted pair tragically froze to death inside the cathedral on Christmas Eve. Though the sculpture was created mainly for visitors, it still adds a poignant and memorable touch to the square.
Antwerp Centraal Station
Antwerp Centraal Station is often described as one of the most beautiful railway stations in the world. Built at the turn of the 20th century, it combines grandeur with functionality. The vast dome, sweeping staircases, and ornate stonework give it the feel of a palace rather than a transport hub. Locals even call it the “Railway Cathedral.”
Inside, the station is just as impressive, with soaring arches and a mix of architectural styles, from neo-Renaissance to Art Nouveau. It’s not only a gateway to the city but also a landmark in its own right, drawing visitors who come simply to admire its design.
For me, stepping into Centraal Station felt like entering a grand hall rather than a train station. Yet, beneath all that elegance, the tracks are stacked one above the other in a modern, multi‑level design. The whole place is a striking juxtaposition of history and innovation.
Museum aan de Stroom (MAS)
My last stop in Antwerp would be the MAS, the Museum aan de Stroom, or “Museum by the Stream.” Opened in 2011, it’s the city’s largest museum and one of its most striking landmarks. Rising ten storeys high in red sandstone and glass, the building itself is an architectural statement, often described as a vertical warehouse of stories. Inside, the MAS explores Antwerp’s role as a port city and its connections to the wider world, but I was going for the view.
On my way down toward the MAS, I passed the house of Albrecht Dürer, which caught my eye for a very particular reason. I had admired the painting Portrait of an African Man, often cited as the oldest known depiction of a wealthy dark‑skinned man in European art. Yet Dürer had created a charcoal drawing of an African man even earlier, making this stop a fascinating reminder of how art and history intertwine with the city streets
By now, I was getting quite weary so I decided to stop for a Stella Artois … well I was in Belgium after all! Even though I’d not spent long in the bar, it was now getting dark … perfect for the view I’d been hoping for. I continued on to the MAS.
By the time I arrived and raced up the escalators to the top floor, night had settled over Antwerp and the city was incandescent. From the rooftop terrace, lights shimmered across the skyline — the cathedral spire glowing above the rooftops, and the Scheldt River reflecting it all like a mirror. It was the perfect way to end the day: a view that captured Antwerp’s history, its energy, and its enduring charm.
Stop 3: Sint Anna (via the tunnel)
Because it was so late, I had missed the last water bus and would have to make my way back to City Camping through the Sint Anna tunnel instead. Far from being an inconvenience, this turned out to be a quirky finale to the day. Returning to the lift I’d passed earlier in the day, I descended in the lift, dropping more than 30 metres below the riverbed to reach the tunnel entrance. From there, I walked the 572‑metre passage beneath the Scheldt, its endless rows of white tiles echoing with the sound of cyclists whizzing past.
On the Sint Anna side, I emerged via the rare wooden escalators, a piece of living history in their own right. It was oddly fun, and a reminder that sometimes the detours are just as memorable as the destinations.
As I made my way back to the campsite, I could still see the dazzling lights of the city on the other side of the river and I couldn’t help but smile. Antwerp had given me history, art, architecture, and even an impromptu workout to end the day. Settling into my TentBox, with the city lights still shimmering in my mind, I felt the familiar mix of comfort and adventure. Not for the first time, it struck me that travel isn’t just about the paths well trodden, it’s also about the unexpected treasures we find along the way. On my lucky Day 7 Antwerp had delivered both in abundance.
Join me on Day 8, where I’ll be heading south to Waterloo – the battlefield that lends its name to this series!
