Destinations: Waterloo, Ghent
Day 8 of my trip would be a really big day. I would be visiting they key purpose of my trip … Waterloo! From there I’d head to Ghent, my base for the next few days adventures.
It was a bit of a grey day, but I was very upbeat and was singing along to ‘Waterloo’ on repeat for far too much of my journey!
Stop 1: Waterloo
One of the very many fabulous things about Belgium is that it is a relatively small country. So the trip from Antwerp to Waterloo was only an hour. Once I’d arrived at Waterloo, it did take me a short while to find the visitor centre for the Waterloo Battle site. For anyone driving, I’d recommend putting “Parking de la Butte du Lion” into your SatNav and that’ll get you straight to the parking at the visitor centre.
As you can probably tell from the picture, the weather was not the best for my visit. So rather than trudge up the 226 steps of the ‘Butte du Lion’ (Lion’s Mound) in the rain, I opted for brunch in the lovely Wellington restaurant on the site.
At this point I wasn’t quite sure what language would be spoken, as Belgium has 3 offical languages, Dutch, French and German. But upon hearing the waiter speak French I felt quite confident as my German is quite rusty and my Dutch practically non existent. I ordered in French, and was really chuffed when he listened and replied to me in French as well.
If you’re not familiar with any of those languages, Google translate will be your friend here!
I had opted for a waffle with chantilly cream and chocolate sauce … the waiter did raise an eyebrow when I ordered both but I grinned it out. And it was totally worth the shamelessness!
Visitor centre
The entrance to the Monument itself is through the Visitor Centre. The centre is actually really interesting in it’s own right, with a huge interactive model that shows the sheer scale of the Battle. And there is also a museum in the basement, with some incredible life size models if you want to dip into more of the history. A virtual tour of the Visitor Centre is available on the Waterloo Memorial website.
As you exit the visitor centre toward the Monument, the walls are lined with impressive paintings that bring the history of the battle to life. These aren’t just random portraits, they show the key figures who shaped that day in 1815. There’s Napoleon Bonaparte, the French Emperor whose ambition led to the clash. Then, the Duke of Wellington, calm and collected as he commanded the Allied forces. He was supported by Field Marshal von Blücher, whose Prussian troops arrived just in time to turn the tide. And finally the young William of Orange, who was wounded during the battle. Each painting feels like a window into the past, a reminder of the personalities behind the strategy and the drama of Waterloo.
The paintings are sombre, and having been hit with the realisation of how dreadful it all actually was, it was out into the cold and all those steps. At least it’d stopped raining and I’d had some ‘energy food’ to keep me going!
Lions Mound
The Lions Mound rises 41m above the flat landscape surrounding it and the 226 steps to the top are quite a slog. But as I reached the top I felt at the same time a rush of achievement and a crushing sense of despair at the futility of war. Perhaps it was the eerie mist of the day, but it seemed the huge battlefield model in the visitor centre was somehow brought to life. I could almost imagine the sounds and the smell of the battle raging across the fields.
What had started out as a bit of a jolly based upon the words of an upbeat and frivolous song, had now turned into a day of reflection and contemplation.
Waterloo Panorama
Making my way down the steps I stopped for a short while to wander round the mocked up camp. Conditions for the solders, as you might expect, would have been dreadful.
The last part of the Memorial is the Waterloo Panorama. The Panorama is a large circular building that houses a huge painting of the Battle created in 1912 by Louis Dumoulin. Due to it’s exceptional size and the amazing sound system, you are totally immersed in the battle. It feels like you are surrounded on all sides by the cavalry charges, clashing of swords, and firing of cannons. It’s certainly an unsettling experience. But it’s well worth a visit, not least because it is one of the few remaining exhibitions of it’s type still open to visitors today.
As you leave the Memorial you are directed back out through the Visitors Centre and of course the shop. Despite the initial reason for my visit, I was somewhat shocked and disappointed to see the ABBA memorabilia on sale. I felt it diminished the terrible legacy of the Battle, and the sacrifice made by over 40,000 souls. I don’t think I’ll be singing along to ‘that’ song again any time soon.
I was glad to return to my car, and head towards my overnight camping in Ghent.
Stop 2: Camping Urban Gardens, Ghent
While preparing for this trip, I had found a fantastic site in Ghent that had great access to transport links. I’d figured that I could set up camp here for a few days, giving me a little stability and reducing the time driving. Additionally, wherever possible I leave my TentBox up at a campsite, rather than having it down in a carpark. This hopefully reduces the changes of opportunistic theft, and maximises on the insurance should anything happen!
I had found Camping Urban Gardens Gent via the VacanceSelect website. It is a fabulous site, quite big but due to the way it is set out with each pitch hedged for privacy it feels very personal. The reception staff are also really helpful and friendly. I would 100% recommend this site and am definitely going to return.
Checking in was easy enough, I had booked a motorhome space with electricity, and it seemed I’d been placed in an area with lots of other UK travellers. I thought this was very well planned … more on that later!
My original plan for the day was to set up quickly and catch the train into Brussels. But the past few days, combined with the physical and emotional toll of the Waterloo Memorial, had been quite draining.
Plus, the site was so lovely and the sun was so warm, I decided to stay at the campsite and chill for the rest of the day.
Days like this are when the top windows of the TentBox are just perfect. I zipped them open, laid back in the sunshine and watched the blossom gently blowing in the breeze … heaven!
It wasn’t long before I nodded off, but a couple of hours later I was woken up by the sound of excited chatter and the most delicious smell.
Venturing out of the TentBox, I walked round to the Reception, where the noise and aromas seemed to be coming from.
Turned out it was pizza night at Urban Gardens! They have an onsite pizza oven and several nights a week, cook fresh pizza made to order. So I had a delicious veggie special, washed down with a cold bottle of the local Belgian beer. Just what I needed to recharge the batteries.
Pizza night is very popular, so much so that all of the outdoor seating at the little bistro was taken. So if you are thinking of trying it out (and I can definitely recommend that) it’s best to get your order in early!
A couple more beers and I was ready to sleep. I had another big day lined up tomorrow and I wanted to make the most of it.
Join me for Day 9 when I venture into Brussels!
